So I will see how clear the attached picture posts, you are saying you replaced the ..driving shaft.. or commonly referred to as the input shaft. If this is what you were ..hammering.. in then I wonder if pilot bearing 72 or some of its rollers are not out of place? Only way to check is to pull the input assembly back out. I really like to help folks out here, but I cannot see how it would be so difficult to open the diagram at the link I supplied and reply with numbers. The print is small and the diagram may be difficult to translate into the actual parts so I will give you a break. I suppose if you work with this type of thing from way back as a young lad it probably is second nature to me. Looks like it is blurry, I do not know why a screen shot from my phone looks fine when views from a library but is blurry in a post.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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