With the damage you describe and the forensic difficulty of interpreting the sounds it made before failure, there seems to be (from here) two possible causes. The first is that the crank was ground incorrectly for the inserts used. Which could also mean the insert on that cylinder was mislabeled, Secondly the rod may have not been torqued correctly. Follows a list: Was plastigauge used on all journals? Were the journals checked for uniformity on return from grinding? (including taper and egg out of round) Were the rod bolts reused or magnafluxed to assure integrity? Were the rods resized and checked for roundness? Was the engine lineboared? Did the oil pressure have any waver in it or lower than expected numbers? What was the reason the engine was rebuilt, and what showed up when it was torn down? is there damage to the piston indicating repeated abuse such as hitting something? was there a fracture in the rod cap that progressed?
These are the things I would look at first. Measurement of remanufactured parts is critical. Look for the numbers on the bent bearing shell. Look at and measure the journal in multiple places if possible. also look at the front main bearing as it is taken apart. Good luck, Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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