I would just replace the tire when worn out. I've worked on splits for 50 years now. Don't bother me to do them.I do look at the condition of them as I work on them. We have several of them still on wagons around here and get new tires as they wear out. Yes a 22.5 rim will go on that hub if you're that worried about the rim. Like was said you do need to use a block beside the tire tread and spin as you tighten up to get straight. Tires last longer that way. Easiest is to draw up 3in a trianlge spin then adjust with the other 3 and tighten them a bit more then draw up the first 3 and so on till tight. Spinning as you go. If it gets off they will need to be loosened up some and tighten the one that is out to pull it back inline you see as you go. Worst thing it an impact to do this with as it is tightened to fast on one then has to be loosened to correct. When you take it off leave the nuts on some and hit the rim to knock the wedges loose. Sometimes they will fly quite a away reason for leaving the nuts on. I've seen them fly 20-30 feet and some times just drop off.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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