Any furnace cement I've ever used was water soluble even after it was dry and hard. I think if you are going to use a filler I would rather use JB Weld High Heat adhesive. It's suppose to be good to 400 degrees. Personally if I ground it smooth and caused it to leak again I would be inclined to go back over it with nickle weld. It may be who ever did it didn't have enough heat to make the weld work and why so much thickness was built up. It might also be the cast had so much impurities in it that nickle welding was a bad choice. It may should have been brazed. Brazing would work whether the cast was good or not.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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