I don't have a wiring diagram for your tractor but, there should be two wires on the terminal on the ignition switch side of the coil (not the one going to the distributor which should have only one wire). One wire from the ignition switch and one from the ignition terminal of the solenoid.
First and foremost be certain the tractor is in neutral before starting this checkout.
1. Unhook the wire from the solenoid ignition (resistor bypass) terminal so you don't see a back feed from the ignition wire on the coil.
2. With the key on test for power at the coil terminal the wire from the switch is connected to. It should have power from the ignition switch that turns on and off when you turn the ignition switch.
3. Check the terminal on the solenoid where you unhooked the wire. It should not have power when the ignition switch is in the run position.
4. Engage the starter while holding the test light on the ignition terminal of the solenoid. It should have power only when the solenoid is engaged (while the engine is cranking).
5. If the starter doesn't engage in step 4, the problem is in the start circuit, not ignition. Test for power on the "S" terminal while trying to start it with the key.
The start circuit and the ignition circuits are two different circuits coming out of the ignition switch. Either one can work without the other. The fact that you were able to start, and run, it using a jumper wire (and your friend made it crank and start with two screwdrivers) to energize the solenoid to make the starter crank; indicates to me your problem is in the start circuit wiring, not the ignition wiring. The engine would not run if the ignition circuit was not working. Some possible problems could be a bad switch, bad wire (broken, high internal resistance from corrosion, etc.), loose connection, or neutral switch not adjusted correctly.
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