Re: Farmall cub

Posted by Janicholson on July 10, 2021 at 14:13:49 from (24.240.46.228):

In Reply to: Farmall cub posted by avant 1735 on July 10, 2021 at 13:34:58:

Good finish mowers, not a ZTR but classic. The power is in the 12 to 14 category in any case. They do not cut brush or deep wet grass. They are a piston on block engine with no sleeves, (as are most cars/light trucks) this means that to rebuild them the bore must be increased and new pistons installed. Parts are readily available right here on Yesterdays Tractor store. They do not have waterpumps so the engines are cooled by thermosiphon. One must believe it works great. There are many solid owners and mechanics on here with vast specific info. The following is some things to consider when getting one running.

The following info is designed for someone with no experience with tractors, but some with cars or other mechanical ability.
First partially remove the oil plug until just a tiny drop comes out. If there is water, or coolant in the oil, it will be coming out first. If only oil great.
If water/coolant, you need to drain the oil. If there is a cup or less of water, (not coolant) there is hope. If coolant, there are issues that must be addressed to determine the tractors worth. Cubs have a dip stick attached to a breather ball om the left side if not below the low mark, move on to the next task.
Next it is necessary to determine if the engine is stuck. If the tractor has a hand crank very good. You can use the crank to try to turn the engine. If no crank (typical) the next option is to put it in 3rd gear then with mighty effort and or 2 people, rock the tractor forward or back by push pull on the top of the rear tires. Watch the fan as this is happening to see if it moves. Moves is good, no moving means more effort is needed.
No movement means that you then need to loosen the starter (not remove it) to see if it got jammed into the teeth of the flywheel. They do that, and loosening the bolts and wiggling the starter motor will, at least temporarily, fix that issue. Rock it again to see if it now moves the fan. If so yea. If not pull the spark plugs and put 4cc of automatic transmission fluid into each plug hole using an animal syringe. If this is where you end up, you will need to wait at least a weak for the fluid to get into the rings. You can also look in each cylinder with a bright light to see if there is visible rust. If so let us know.
Next assuming it does rotate is to assess the fuel system to see if it needs to be cleaned. likely if it sat for a year or more. There is a plug in the bottom of the carb that will allow fuel flow to be checked. if no fuel, there id a valve under the tank to open for the system. If bad gas, or gunk in it/no flow, service that. There is a screen in the sediment bowl, and a screen in the fitting at the carb fuel inlet. Both get trash/rust in them.
Purchase a operators manual and service/repair manual. This site sells them. At this point, I will say tell us what you find so we can focus on what is there. Check the battery, and wiring for shjny connections. It is 6v positive ground if stock, with a generator. Or 12v if converted with an alternator. Let us know that as well. Jim

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