In a perfect world, yes the area inside the boot will be dry.
The grease you added will transfer to the opposite side because there is a vent tube connecting the 2 sides, it equalizes the air as one side goes in while the other goes out.
If it's not leaking, and the inner tie rod sockets are tight, just clean away any road grit and replace the boot. Driving it with a bad boot will eventually start it to leaking.
Even if it's starting to leak a little, try some Lucas power steering stop leak. It softens and swells the seals, works very well.
If you plan on keeping the car eventually the rack will need to be replaced. You will get a rebuilt unit complete with inner tie rods. Don't expect high quality, or it to last as long as the original.
When the rack is replaced, the alignment will need to be done unless you DIY and get it as close as you can with the home made toe-in measuring method. Otherwise the shop that does it will say it needs struts and outer tie rod ends and whatever else they can sell, so get ready for a substantial bill!
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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