Carry a hand full of tools, be ready to catch it in the act.
Start with the spark, have an old spark plug with the electrode bent straight or broke off, put it in a plug wire and ground the base, start the engine and see if it will jump the gap. If no, the spark is weak, points out of adjustment, bad condenser(often bad out of the box), bad or wrong coil (it should not be too hot to touch), bad wires, cap, rotor. All ignition components are now poor quality imports. Often they are made wrong, boxed wrong, or slightly different. Don't assume new always means good!
There is a drain plug in the carb bowl. Be ready to quickly pull the plug and see what kind of flow you have. Engine off, fuel valve open, remove the plug and catch the flow in a clean glass if possible. You should get a continuous flow, not slow to a drip or stop. Look at what was caught. If contaminated with rust, trash, water, the same will be in the carb and tank. A fouled tank will cause ongoing problems.
If the flow is insufficient, start chasing the problem back to the tank. There should be a screen in the fuel fitting at the carb, another in the sediment bowl, possibly one standing inside the tank.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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