I think I'd look for a pair of rear wheel spacers and longer lug bolts to widen the rear track of that tractor, looks like 2 inches per side would still let you be able to trim tight up against things. A 4 inch wider rear tread width would make the tractor feel a lot more steady. And the suggestion of half a tire full of liquid ballast would help too. The pictures really don't look very steep in my opinion. The County mows roadbanks around here with a 6000 series 4WD Deere, ROPS cab with heater and AC, and they are set fairly narrow, and I don't know how they stay on all 4 wheels on some slopes, they have to be close to 45 degrees, I'm pretty sure they have slope meters in the cab so they know when to back off a slope. The operators manual makes a big deal about not mowing over a 15 degree slope, draw a 45 degree angle, then divide it into thirds, that's 15 degrees, not much. I have about 500 feet of roadbank I mow, I used to mow it with a Cub Cadet garden tractor, I'd slide over and sit half on the uphill fender, the tires would slide sidways off the slope if the grass was the least little bit wet. I mow it with my zero turn with the ROPS folded, it's still higher than my head, and my seat belt on, it's really not that hard to keep on that slope. I imagine the reason for the 15 degree limit is to eliminate the chance of oil starvation in the engine, all the oil flowing away from the oil pump pickup.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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