The most logical starting point is a by-the-book tune up. The only special tools you will need is an injector timing pin for your particular engine ( as will be stated in the manual , height in inches) or you can use a depth micrometer. Also need a gauge to reset fuel modulator if it is turbocharged. If after all this still starts hard, remove the air box covers and check for stuck or broken piston rings. Poke the rings with a blunt instrument and they should feel springy to be serviceable. Stuck or broken rings will be also darker in color from no pressure on the cylinder wall. With the fuel off, have an assistant crank the engine while you have your ear at the exhaust, to listen for leaking exhaust valves. Hard starting also occurs if the fuel system has a tank below the fuel pump to where fuel is draining back into the tank. Smoke should appear very nearly immediately at the first start attempt. If no smoke within a couple seconds of cranking, check the anti- drain-back valve for wear, or it may have sucked something out of the tank and the valve is stuck open. The above is assuming the injectors are not toast and the electrical system is up to snuff.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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