Rustred, The following is straight out of my repair program for a 1998 1 ton chevy 2WD. I do not always do the pretorque of the nut. As stated before, I tighten until hub won't turn and back off 1/6 of a turn or more if necessary. Per the program you are to have some endplay. This is what I referred to as wobble. Endplay equals wobble in my book. In my 20+ years of wrenching I have never had or seen a bearing fail by too much endplay. I have had to replace bearings that failed from being too tight. They came that way straight from the factory/dealer.
Wheel Bearing Adjustment (C3500HD) Notice: Never preload the front wheel bearings. Damage can result by the steady load on the roller ends that comes from preloading.
Important:
In order to maintain the continuous, smooth functioning of the front suspension, the front wheel bearings must be correctly adjusted. The bearings must be a slip fit on the spindle and the wheel bearings must be lubricated in order to ensure that the roller bearings will roll and not skid. The spindle nut must have a free-running fit on the spindle threads. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle with suitable safety stands under the lower control arm. Remove the retainer cap. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Remove the cotter pin. Tighten:
Tighten the nut to 16 [n-m] (12 lb ft), while rotating the wheel and tire assembly, or the hub/rotor. This will seat the bearings.
Back off the nut one flat. If the hole in the spindle lines up with the slot in the nut, insert the cotter pin. If these do not line up, back off the nut until the hole and the slot line up. Do not back off the nut more than one additional flat. Measure the endplay in the hub/rotor. This measurement should be between 0.0130.20 mm (0.00050.008 in) when properly adjusted. Install the retainer cap. Lower the vehicle.
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