I don't know about the AR-10, but I load for my M14 and I know for that rifle it's important to stick with faster powders, nothing slower than IMR-4064. IMR-4895 and H4895 are very popular powders for this round and give great accuracy.
Some folks will suggest using a 'small base' reloading die, for easier chambering in your autoloader, but I would not do that. It probably has a fairly loose chamber, and you'll just wear out your brass faster if you resize it too much. You may want to consider using an RCBS X-die, which reduces the need to trim your cases and makes them last longer. Regardless of how you size your cases, you'll want to check for incipient case head separation each time you resize them. Use a straightened paper clip with a 90 degree bend at the end to feel the inside of the case head. If the case head is about to separate you'll feel a definite groove inside the case.
My favorite bullet for my M14 is the Nosler Custom Competition HPBT in 168 grain. They're similar to the Sierra MatchKing, but usually cheaper, and IMO just as good.
I don't know about your AR-10, but many military rifles have floating firing pins and can fire out of battery if a too-sensitive primer is used. For this reason, Winchester and CCI primers are preferred over Federal and Remington.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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