I would start with a basic tune up, plugs, points, condenser, and plug wires.
If the plugs have been in a long time and are not fouling, go back with the same D16, if they are oil fouling, go up to a hotter D21.
Points and condenser, replace them but save the condenser! It may be better than the new one. The new ones are known for being bad out of the box, so if it runs bad or won't get spark after the install, put the old condenser back in.
While you're in the distributor, check the centrifugal advance. The rotor should turn a few degrees and spring back when released. If it's frozen, slow to return or flops back and forth without returning, the distributor needs to come out, be disassembled, lubed, and repaired as necessary. Another critical test id side play in the shaft bushings. The bushing or bearing, whichever it has, must be tight or the points will not stay set. Points that will not stay set will be short lived and never operate properly.
Wires should be either solid wire or spiral core resistor. Avoid the graphite string type resistor wires. If you can't find a specific fit set, you can buy universal and cut them to length.
If the carb is working, you must be doing something right! As long as it's working, leave it alone! It is a very simple carb. The only moving parts are the float and needle valve. If it's not flooding, runs and idles good, what more can you ask? The biggest enemy is a trashy gas tank, or sitting with ethanol in the bowl.
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Today's Featured Article - When Push Comes to Shove - by Dave Patterson. When I was a “kid” (still am to a deree) about two I guess, my parents couldn’t find me one day. They were horrified (we lived by the railroad), my mother thought the worst: "He’s been run over by a train, he’s gone forever!" Where did they find me? Perched up on the seat of the tractor. I’d probably plowed about 3000 acres (in my head anyway) by the time they found me. This is where my love for tractors started and has only gotten worse in my tender 50 yrs on this “green planet”. I’m par
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