Only use nail down poison for rats. Loose poison won't work. They'll just carry it off (likely to nest), and won't eat it. Or very little if they do. Nail down forces them to eat it as is/where is. Something about not being able to carry it off, causes them to eat more of it. Mouse traps will only work for mice. Rats and mice don't like being in wide open spaces. Such as middle of shop floor. Even in the dark. So, put poison in a somewhat hidden location. Behind a box along a wall. Under some open shelving. Behind a trash can. But don't make it to hard for them to find. Like inside a cabinet, desk, or tractor cab. Some place where they are likely to travel, and find it easily works the best. Keep it out all the time, replace when out. Switch brands of poison when bach is gone, also works the best. Don't park something and say, gish, I probably better put some poison out in the next couple weeks for the summer. Pulling side covers is good idea. Opening hood on a vehicle has the same effect if storing a vehicle. I've not had much luck neither with live traps for rats. Probably a little of the same concept as hiding poison to good for it to be found. Maybe they give up to easily on finding the hole to get in. Or perhaps they are just to lite to trip the trap door. I don't know for sure, but have not had much luck with that. I have had a little luck with foot hold traps for regular trapping. Smear peanut butter or something on the round foot trip.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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