If you were to use a pump, I'd think you'd have trouble getting a pipe or hose snaked to the bottom going through the fill hole. If not, and per say you did get something to the bottom, I'd think you'd for sure have problems getting the oil (likely way thicker in consistency than 80/90) to suck through the hose and get the pump primed Most of them that I have drained, the oil was very thick. I think alot of people used thicker than recommended to reduce seal leakage, and to slow the gears down faster while shifting. If P.T.O. assembly can simply be pulled out of its hole, and put back in with no other further disassembly to put it back in (I've never had one out), draining and cleaning the rest of oil out through that hole would probably be the best way. Note that this will likely be alot more messier and you'll likely want to put 2 or 3 gallons of diesel or something in and operate it a bit prior, to thin the oil. And also, there is a second drain plug higher up, and further forward to drain fluid in an area that traps fluid at a higher location. That fluid will remain there, if you likewise can't get that drain plug out.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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