Looks like a fairly heavy blade. Heavy enough that it'll likely have to much force on the top link to adjust the top link while being hooked up to blade. Disconnect top link, adjust it to the length you want (guess), and hook it back up to the blade already adjusted. Note, (you will need to use the 3 point lever on tractor to raise/lower the blade to get the top link hooked back up). If pre-adjusted top link is to long to hook up, raise the three point a little. If top link is to short, lower the three point a little. To take some of the trial and error of the guessing game out if it, with top link removed, adjust blade to the angle you want with three point lever, and adjust top link to that length as close as you can get, then hook it back up as previously mentioned. The top link has two threaded pieces. One on each end. Note, that the ends are designed to be adjusted simultaneously by turning the middle when hooked up. So when adjusting it while unhooked, make sure your adjusting it the same amount on both ends (count turns). These can get out of sink by only adjusting one end. If out if sink, your adjusting limitations will be all messed up. If it is all messed up already, you can turn both ends all the way in, and then back out seperately by same number of turns.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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