Air still trapped somewhere is the most common. A good test, pump up the brakes until there is good pedal, take the cap off the master cylinder, look in when the pedal is released. a small, short fountain of fluid is normal, but if fluid keeps returning to the master cylinder, there is still air somewhere. I have reverse blead them, use a new or thoroughly cleaned pump type oil can, connect it to an open bleeder screw, and pump fluid back toward the master cylinder.
Out of adjustment shoes. Tighten the adjuster until the wheel is locked, then back off until the wheel turns, and the shoes still just drag. If new shoes were installed, they may not fit the drums exactly. They can be arc ground or will have to fit themselves with use.
Wrong components. Trucks use a variety of brake options. The master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and booster must all be the correct bore. They may look the same from the outside but be different internally. The original and new booster will have a tag, the numbers must match for it to work.
I remember years ago fighting one of those for several days. Ended up being a defective rebuilt booster.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: JB Weld - by Staff. JB Weld is basically an epoxy glue that does an exceptionally good job of bonding to cast iron and steel along with several other materials. As I mentioned, it is so common that I have yet to buy a tractor that did not have JB Weld used somewhere. It is sometimes used so well you can't tell its there and other times used as a sloppy quick fix. Finding where and how it can be used correctly is key to whether you are using it as an "inelegant hack" or an integral solution to difficult and expens
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