Quote: CVPost-Crazy Horse (quoted from post at 16:13:05 03/13/22) Thanks for the reply Dennis. I did what you said, disconnected all wires to the rectifier (or diode or whatever). It reads to be carrying current in both directions so it has continuity no matter how you hook up the meter. So that sounds like it's not working then, is that right?
It's not much of a device for complexity, just two metal plates, one stacked on top of the other, one is bigger (about1.5 square) and the other one smaller, about 0.5 square. Each one has it's own electrical tab for connecting wires, one for each plate.
So I just did another test with everything hooked up. I plugged the charger into the wall outlet and guess what? The battery charge leads (+ and -) show 13.6 volts but AC, not DC. Funny I never checked for that before assuming that it would only be DC currecnt. So it would appear that I am reading the AC current which is leaving the transformer and it is not being flipped to DC current.
Looking around on the web I see thousands of what they call bridge rectifiers of all sorts, sizes, and specs. Not sure if this is what I need or not, the plate type seems to be a bit dated from what I read. I wonder how those two simple plates are able to flip AC to DC if working properly, it looks like something a kid could make up with some tin, a center rivet an some electrical tabs.
It is the chemical/compounds on the plates (selenium, etc.) that make it a rectifier/diode. A bridge rectifier has 4 diodes. You only need one diode, but a bridge can be wired so as to use only one of the four. These are all diodes, from a fraction of an ampere to 100 amperes.
You select one that fits your current and voltage needs. Maybe 50v and 4-5 amperes.
This post was edited by JMOR on 03/13/2022 at 01:50 pm.
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You select one that fits your current and voltage needs. Maybe 50v and 4-5 amperes.