Unless there is some type of contamination, I would not put any type flush in it!
Reason is, once anything is put in there and circulated, there is no way to get it all out, especially if it's trapped inside the cylinders. That could be a considerable amount.
If there is access to the inside of the tank, you can wash it out, wipe it clean. If there is a suction strainer, clean or replace it. If there is a return filter, replace it.
If the system is contaminated with sludge or the wrong oil, about all you can do is replace the oil several times to reduce the contamination. Short of a complete disassembly, removing and purging all the cylinders is the only way to completely clean it up.
If there was a pump failure and metal was shed, it needs a complete tear down and flushing of all components.
Water will eventually evaporate away once the oil is up to temperature and operated for an extended period, and the source is eliminated.
Don't confuse air for water. If the level was run low, it will whip air into the oil and give it a milky appearance. Once the level is restored the air will eventually work it's way out.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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