The general favorite seems to be 15w-40 in both the engine and hydraulic system. Some folks will run 20w-50 if their pump, or drive motor is getting tired. Under no circumstances should you run regular hydraulic oil in the system. It doesn't hurt anything, it just doesn't work...
On mine, there's a grease fitting underneath the back hoe boom knuckle. It was missing when I got mine, and tends to get ripped out when that area bottoms out loading/unloading the machine on a tilt bed trailer... Terrible location... I greased mine, and then removed the fitting, and put a plug in to keep dirt out. No idea if that's a stock location.
Likely not an issue on your machine due to it being a later model... Once you get in the rear, check the bolts that hold the diff together. They were using bolts that had a tendency to shear early on. If that happens you loose either high or low, I don't recall which. The real issue at that point is you can have the broken piece roll under a gear, and punch a hole in the cast iron housing.
And on a safety note... The bolts that hold the top cover of the rear, also hold the rear to the frame... Once you pull them there's not much holding the rear in place other than the brake linkage, and the two hydraulic lines to the drive motor. Make sure you're all chocked in place, because you do not want to damage the hydraulic lines. They're no longer available (unless the 648 is different than my 646), and they're too short/obnoxious for a local shop to make. The bends are too tight to make with a hose as well.
There are likely more manuals on the site I posted than you have. They've managed to get the more detailed hydraulic service manuals and such that the dealers had. You can do most anything with the regular parts, and owners manual, but some of that other info can come in handy...
Parts support will be a mixed bag. Some of the parts for the D-100 will be available through a Case Construction dealer, as they put that hoe on everything imaginable for a long time. Parts for the tractor have some availability through the old Ingersoll Tractor dealers. (there are a couple regular posters on that forum I posted that are extremely helpful) After that, the second hand market isn't horrible, but it also isn't nearly as robust as say something from Deere would be. Most things you'll need are usually more general in nature anyway like basic engine service parts, so that's no issue.
I'm not familiar with the 830 personally. Never been a lot of Case around the area I'm in. Guess there just wasn't a dealer handy... Looks like it'll handle whatever your lifting needs will be on the 648. I got by with just an engine hoist for most of what I've had to do that I couldn't use the machine itself for. No room in my 1/10 acre suburban yard for anything bigger at the time... Now, there's room for more toys...
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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