The way many different people have explained it to me (including two different hydraulic shops) is that fluid control in the valve is maintained by a very precise fit between the bore of the valve and its respective spool. It is metal to metal with very precise tolerances. The hydraulic shop mic'd the spool outside diameter and the bore inside diameter after disassembling the valve. If there has been enough wear over the years (which was my case), then the bore diameter may be too large and begins to allow fluid to run by the spool instead to through the milled passages in the spool. You have loss of fluid control. They actually tested my valve for this and confirmed that fluid was blowing by the spools. I've been told there are shops that can build the spool diameter back to once again achieve a nice and proper tight fit between it and the bore but it's very expensive to do so, like many times the cost of a new valve. If you had an external leak on your valve it could simply have been an o-ring replacement at the end cap. I didn't have an external leak. My leaks were all internal.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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