With the block on the floor you just doubled your problem of getting the piston to move since you need a couple mains in to hold the crank off the floor when you do move that piston. At this point I would just try a universal socket to get the bolts loose and then you could remove the crank with the rod where it is. No I don't mean a universal and a socket. A universal socket,where the socket is the universal. Much shorter and would probably be in 3/8 drive. Might be able to get on the rod nut with it. The reason you doubled the work is the block will be siding all over the floor when you hit that piston with a wood block until you set it up on the bottom of the block. Otherwise just take the block and crank in and let them get it apart now. Suck it up and just put the sleeves in it now .You don't want to go back and do all this again in a few short years. You can spin rods and mains in after it is running if you want to skimp for now. Sleeves will cost probably 4-500 and bearings another probably 3-400 now with the main seals. The head work if you do it is not much if you have it done then more like about another 5. So you have about 2,000 in an engine that will out last you now.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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