I don't have a borescope. The exhaust stack has a good cap on it, so I don't think it got any water down the exh system. It hasn't run for 5 years, I think it's just got some rusty spots on the cyl.
Since I can get a head gasket real easy, I might just pop the head off and clean the cyl walls and tap on the pistons with a wood handle mallet. Then heat and rock the engine back and forth. Worst case is a broken ring, and then I have to get a rebuild kit.
From what I see, the trans under engine prevents removal of the oil pain in-frame. Would need to remove the engine to get the rods out the top. Hoping to avoid that. If it goes that far, I'll get new pistons, jugs, rings, and rod bearings and just refresh the whole thing. New valve grind too.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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