I doubt you can adjust out how grabby the clutch is during engagement but you can try. Disclaimer. I have not driven or worked on your tractor model, probably only driven a DB once. Using general mechanical knowledge here goes. It says you back out screw 8 to decrease free play. You say there is to much so that is the first action you take. Now I do not know what is there to stop how far that screws out, but if it is just an adjustment screw with a lock nut you probably want to keep at least one turn or thread screwing it in the casting to lock it in position. So I would adjust that out to get rid of as much free play as you can or set it at the 1 - 1 1/8 in. setting as is called for if possible. So even if you do not get all the free play out to the specified settings drive it a bit at that point and see if it has changed. If not I believe you will just have to accept that the clutch in this tractor is a little grabby or it may just be getting worn to the point it needs replacement. If all the free play is not taken up by the adjustment screw and you really insist that it must be ..wasting your time in my book.. then the book says you need to scribe across the shaft and lever 9, pull it off and turn it counter clockwise one serration or spline and reinstall as described in the manual. Then readjust the stop stud as described in the first step. However, I am assuredly convinced the proper adjustment will not make a change to smoothness of how the clutch engages. The point of motion of the clutch pedal when the clutch plate lining and the rotating surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate come together has no effect on how the surface react to each other as far as getting everything turning the same speed or the action of engagement of the clutch. I can see if you have another tractor or two and the clutch adjustment is far different on this one how you may just unconsciously move the pedal up quicker and then the engagement point surprises you. So in that case the adjustment may help. The other thing you might try which may make it better or worse, but if the tractor sets long periods with no use this may have a good chance of helping is this. Slightly abuse the clutch by slipping it. Get it on a roadway an put it in high gear. Set the throttle at 3/4 open or so then hold the brakes then slowly let the clutch out to where the engine is pulling down to the point it normally would to get the tractor moving. Keep the brakes on for a 5 count then slowly release them and let the clutch out the rest of the way. Do this twice. Now you will have to let the clutch cool off to see if it had helped or not. Sorry if some of my sentences are a little run on just think of this as being written by the Tractor Vet. At least I did not tell you how much quicker I fixed something and how it worked so much better than if someone else would have did it. And BTW I linked the post you made in the Case forum because the photo of the manual is clearer there. See what happens by adjusting it. If you need more help with clarification post back here or email me.
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Today's Featured Article - When Push Comes to Shove - by Dave Patterson. When I was a “kid” (still am to a deree) about two I guess, my parents couldn’t find me one day. They were horrified (we lived by the railroad), my mother thought the worst: "He’s been run over by a train, he’s gone forever!" Where did they find me? Perched up on the seat of the tractor. I’d probably plowed about 3000 acres (in my head anyway) by the time they found me. This is where my love for tractors started and has only gotten worse in my tender 50 yrs on this “green planet”. I’m par
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