It will never run smooth with air going through the injectors. Check every fitting between the suction side of the pump and the fuel tank. If you have spin-on filters, inspect the filter head for cracks where the NPT fittings thread in, wedge action caused by over tightening. If cartridge type filter, make sure good gasket on retainer bolt, and a good gasket where the can meets the head. If you have old braided DOT hose, or any hose that is crispy in way, throw it all out and get new hoses made up, or make them yourself if the hoses have reusable ends. If you have an auxiliary water separator, those can be a source of trouble also. If the suction line goes in the tank at the top, there will be a dip tube in the tank. The tube can crack next to the weld without breaking all the way off, thus creating an air leak. If all of the above checks out, hook a piece of hose to the suction side of the pump, bypassing everything, and put the other end in a can of fuel. If you STILL have air, then it is coming in past the pump shaft. Everything downstream of the pump is under pressure, air cannot enter. The above is not intended to be checked in stated order, start with the easy / cheap stuff first.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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