No alignment tool is needed as the traction and PTO discs are "loose" until the engine us started and clutch pressure comes up.
The mechanism is set up so the two clutch hubs are retained fairly close to centered, and will easily fit over the male splines if you bar then engine over a little as you GENTLY roll the halves of the tractor back together.
As to setting the fingers you REALLY need the elaborate and $$$ official tool.
You can take the flywheel off, install the new clutch assembly and "march mark" it and the flywheel and take the unit to a dealership or or other shop that has the tool, and have them set all 6 fingers.
Mite as well replace the crankshaft seal while you're in there.
Use new flywheel bolts with the appropriate thread locker/sealant on them or you may wind up with a situation of engine and transmission/hydraulic oil migrating between the systems.
Then, install the clutch, matching the marks you made so it's as it was when it was set.
Did you remove the little hex shaft that drives the transmission pump through the plugged hole at the back of the tractor BEFORE splitting it?
If NOT it MAY have gotten bent. If it hasn't already been "pulled", pull it before rolling the tractor back together and check it over carefully before reusing it.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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