I had a 4230 with a 6v battery on both sides. I wasn't happy with the starting performance. One problem was that the current loop was from a main engine casting mounting bolt, you connected ground on the right side through the right battery out of that battery to the left battery and out that to the starter solenoid. Then the starter's case was bolted to the engine frame....meaning part of the loop was from the starter's case through that interface with the engine block, out and out the other side of the block as mentioned.......and the connecting wire was 0 AWG.....for the record, 0 is used for entrance electrical service rated at 100 Amperes or less......way less than the 300 Amperes, give or take needed to start a 400 cu. inch diesel engine.
So, I put a 12v battery on each side, wired them in parallel with 00 AWG cable (yes I routed 2 cables under the floor pan connecting both sides of the tractor) and put the ground wire under one of the starter mounting bolts, with the terminal touching the starter's case under that mounting bolt.
Lastly the batteries were 31 series (3/8 studs) I get at the local OTR truck dealer (they buy them by the pallet load for a super price), sealed, 925 CCA.......and they custom made the cables for me too.
The difference......I didn't have to start it.....I just had to think to myself.....START and if a flash it was up and running.....more or less.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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