Reading about your problem several things come to mind;
-If as you say the tractor has been converted to 12 volt and it has a ballast resistor it is possible you are getting spark while cranking but due to either a wiring issue or a failed ballast resistor you will have no spark once you release the start button.
-Has anything else been checked? compression, valve adjustment etc.
-You say you have a good spark, was that checked on one cylinder or all cylinders?
-Could firing order be mixed up?
-Moisture under distributor cap?
-One or more old wires shorting out?
-Badly restricted air filter?
-Regarding your carburetor, if you are adamant the carb is causing the problem then remove the air intake hose from the carb and squirt a teaspoon of gas directly into it and try starting, if it catches and runs good for a few seconds then you have confirmed you have a fuel problem. If you are getting a good constant flow when the drain plug is removed then it is time for a proper carb dismantle and cleaning.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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