Although JANich has it pretty well covered I figure that a visualization would not hurt. It took me a while but I found a low compression 6186 head, the picture is not the best but I think it will work. In the 1st link is pictures of the H kerosene head which is out of stock. Look at the photo of the bottom side looking at the combustion chambers, unfortunately the lighting in the photo is low. Look at what would be the top of the spark plug hole when the head is on the tractor, we will call that point A. Look where the combustion chamber side above that hole turns and meets with what I will call the ceiling of the chamber that the valve heads seat in, we will call that point B. Look at the distance between A and B in that photo. Now compare that to the A to B distance of your head, I think you will see a noticeable difference. The depth of that chamber is what changes the length of the valves because the rocker arms and shaft set at the same distance from the surface of the block no matter what fuel the tractor was designed to burn. The depth of the chamber in this case allows the combustion to have a larger air volume thus lowering the compression ratio. The second link is an old YT post that discusses the different chamber volumes of the various head casting numbers. Hope this helps, I will still keep telling you that your choice is unwise, but the horse is dead.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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