Despite being old the deck has only very slight deformity from the blades hitting it, so it has apparently not had a lot of use. There are many, many out there in regular use that have much more deformity to both the top and sides.It is just the nature of the work. The previous owner apparently did not own a welder so it never got its cracks, which they all get, repaired. I would use a chain instead of a regular top link since the mower has no adequate provision to handle the back end lift when the rear wheel rolls up and over something. Be sure that your front is always a little lower than the rear so that you are cutting the material just once. Do not sharpen the blades. They need to be dull so that the stumps that are left are shredded instead of cut and sharp. If you need to replace blades the hole behind the gear box is there to provide access to the pins that the blades pivot on. I see no slip clutch so you are relying on a shear bolt to protect the driveline of both the mower and your tractor. I recommend removing the bolt and cleaning the mating surfaces. Then determine the grade of the bolt and pick up a few of that rating but also a few of the next softer rating. Start out with the softer ones and see how it goes. You don't know if the PO swapped in a heavier one, putting the driveline in jeopardy. The chains hanging along the front are certainly a good thing. Many mowers come with them now, but they first appeared only within the last twenty years, just like the safety upgrades to everything that we use at home and at work.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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