JimME okay, 10-4 we had a 1080 and it was that way. I just saw that the 175s were produced until 1975, and he said it came with an alternator and I am sure early models had generators. Just thought there may have possibly been some changes to the wiring of the system. The suggestion to check the fuel gauge was a simple way to tell which way to go.
To cabin fever your tractor apparently has a oil pressure switch that when it sees engine oil pressure closes and acts as an ..ignition on.. switch to power the fuel gauge and whatever else. So as others have mentioned that will be your point to connect your ..excite.. circuit. It would be quite helpful if someone had a wiring diagram for your tractor to post. I have access to one for a 135 with a generator but I cannot assume it is close enough for long distance repair instructions. I am sure if I had the tractor here I could follow it and it would be close enough for me to get what I need but that is not the scenario here. Sorry about taking you off track.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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