If you know this ignore it. Apple and many other fruit trees have moderately deep roots. If the tree is grafted root stock, especially if a dwarf or small format tree type) the graft must be above the ground to prevent root development above the graft. Rooting above the graft can change the growth pattern to normal tree height. The top 8 inches of soil will make little difference to the tree. if bare root trees are purchased, (about 3/4 inch trunk) the planting hole should be about 2 to 2.5 feet deep, and 15 to 18 inches in diameter. Loam soil and composted manure at 50/50 should be used in the bottom of the hole about 2 inches deep. Next a layer of the top soil removed from the hole at the start of the dig, mixed with 30% compost. Use this mix to set the root stock as above, centered and tamped into root contact and watered as the hole is filled. the last soil can be the sub soil (unless it is clay) to level with the grade. more water is then applied. The soil will subside as it compacts, so periodic checks should be made to fill to level all depressed holes. watering to retain moist but not saturated soil is needed until at least a year has passed to avoid stressing the tree as it develops new roots. I have planted hundreds of apple trees and very few had problems. The orchard where I worked had 4000 trees of apple, plum, peach, pear, and cherry. Mice and other rodents can chew tender new trunks, so putting guard tubes on them is a good idea. (talk to other orchardists in your area for advice) Best of luck and welcome to the fruit tree world. Jim
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 5MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
