USED to be... sae 30 was a very plain oil and low rated... BUT NOW... you can buy hd 30wt oil full of robust additives rated for diesel compression AND for gas spark use. So... with that sae30 hd oil, I no long have an objection to using the HD version with all the great stuff added to the very plain base oil. IRONICALLY, its almost twice as much$$$$$ for it as it is for the 15w-40 oil... of which in my mind is actually a much better base oil than the hd 30w..I want oil that has the cling properties to prevent dry starting that damages cam shafts (GM), the anti piston coking at the ring lands(cummins), the anti friction additives that stop the tappet and cam follower wear(cummins and cat), the modifier that stops the piston scuffing, the high alkali additives that neutralize the the acids, The anti clump additives that stop sludge from forming. All is part of the hd additive package... And then there is... the initial cold flow and starting of the 5w-xx but the high temp protection of the xw-40 oil. But now... for more money$$$$, you can run the hd sae30 and come quit a bit closer, if you take away cold starting and high temperature... again at a higher cost. Saw the hd sae30 in the diesel section of wallyworld... But there's nothing wrong with it. IIRC a quart of it was about same$$ as half of a gallon of the 15w-40. from the department of redundancy department.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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