Bob- the tach and hour meter are on the main dash cluster, but appear completely separate. The hour meter uses a battery voltage feed from the "L" terminal of the alternator, which should only be 12V when the engine is actually running, not even just a Key On/Engine Off situation, to avoid running up the hours if the key is left on. I may try to hot wire the hour meter with a 12V source to see if it will advance.
The only reason I am messing with this now is that I wore a hole in a steel hydraulic line from the steering valve at the dash running forward to the steering cylinder at the front axle. I had to disassemble the hood, cowl and dash panels to get to the valve to replace the line, and figured it was a good time to trouble shoot since it was already torn apart.
I thought I might actually have to split the tractor to get that line in/out- it has like 34 bends in about 48 inches length. I did unwire the alternator and block heater, remove both brake lines, remove the high pressure pump suction and discharge lines in addition to the bodywork removal. I probably had eight hours of time in the R&R of that line alone, the hour meter is just an annoyance that got worked out of convenience.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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