The ''bar'' you have put on the tractor drawbar needs to be more rearward so the second chain will limit the main frame of the mower from dropping lower than a certain height (I can't remember the ''spec'', but it's in the O.M.).
Did you re-locate the ''shaft'', Key #10, in the drawing below, frame the LH hole in the main frame to the RH hole as well as swapping the lift components?
If those items have been done, the O.M. covers the setting up of the chains you asked about, very well (as I recall).
One setting controls spring tension which makes the tractor carry most of the weight of the mower, taking weight off of the ''shoes''.
The length of the other chain controls how the outer shoe lifts first, when raising the mower.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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