First thing to find out is, are there any hidden obstacles? Things like logs, stumps, holes, ditches, ROCKS??? If there are no obstacles, then look for a mower with thinner blades. Thick blades do not like grasses so much, but thinner blades will bend easily. Also look at blade tip speed. Just looking at RPM does nothing. The working part of the blade is at the tip, so have to figure speed of blade at tip. For that, just assume 560RPM. Now multiply circumference of blade tips in feet by 560RPM, then compare that number between various mowers to find which one has the highest blade speed. This method works between ALL the types of mowers, so don't think you can simply judge by gear ratio, length of blades, etc.
When I had a brush deck, it did awesome in the woods, but lousy when I moved here (northern prairie). I ended up using an angle grinder to remove LOTS of material to make a very sharp blade. Took many hours of grinding to get done (without overheating the metal) but gave great results. That way I had the best of both worlds; blades that could handle light brush yet still cut tall grasses nicely. But what works well for one person doesn't necessarily work 'best' for another. Keep up with your research and education!
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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