If its a part I may not use for years I let PH dry when I need the part I scuff it with a scotch brite pad. If I am going to paint the part soon I flush it off with water before it has a chance to dry. I mostly use it to get a clean oil free surface @ 100% this works especially well on new metal. I have cut PH when I am running low it cleans just as well as 100%.
If I am treating rust I use Extend are Loctite SF 754 apply and let dry. I scuff when I paint the part, Youtube it.
Remember neither are epoxy primer friendly scuff are not epoxy will not bond well to them. The only way I have seen to get either off is to apply another coat to dissolve it.
For metal prep I am going to paint soon cut PH 50% flush with water I like to get a dusty residue on the surface not a hard polymer surface. The best metal prep is from a automotive paint store its exspensive... : (
For heavy rust Extend scuff a little before paint.
If using any body filler it needs a clean rust free bare metal surface to bond to.
Using your cheap paint I doubt you will have an issue with adhesion BTDT if an exspensive... automotive paint YES.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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