6V or 12V? 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring regardless if 6V or 12V. DEAD BATTERY likely culprit. If you don't keep the battery on a float charger (DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR) when tractor is idle and parked in the barn for over week, it will lose specific gravity and deplete cells. A basic trickle charger won't do diddly squat as it can boil out the battery if left unattended. Best to take battery to a local starter/alt shop and have it tested on their special machine. The battery is the heart of any machine. It must maintain a full charge under load. You need a fully charge battery to: Spin The Starter Motor; Engage the Bendix drive; and Provide correct voltage to the Coil for Ignition. Use a good brand battery, cheap bargain house brands typically have poor lifespans. While battery is out being tested, verify entire wiring is correct using manuals, pictograms, and your VOM set to continuity. Can also perform The Fuel Flow Test with a cold engine. Remove drain plug on bottom of carb, open SED BULB VALVE 2 TURNS. Fuel Flow unobstructed, 1 pint in 2 minutes. Pass? Leave alone. Fail? Check entire fuel system: 3 screens first in N system. Removing the carb and rebuilding is last option. My email is open for more detailed info.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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