You need to be much better at raking the hay to keep a uniform windrow or hay that does not get thick and thin. But hay just is thick and thin patches, so you will run into the thicker wads of hay and you cant easily change travel speeds of the tractor because any time you push in the clutch you also stop power to the baler. As Rich says, you need to anticipate a heavy batch of hay coming up and shift quickly while there is still light hay feeding into the baler, so the momentum keeps the baler running. Millions of bales have been bales without live pto; but it takes more skill and thought to do so.
I own an H and a 300. Almost the same tractor, I have baled with both. The 300 is soooooo much nicer with the live pto and the hi lo to shift a gear on the go. I only use the H if I have no other choice.
As to the rocking, a baler has the plunger ramming back and forth, that is a fair bit of weight rocking back and forth, it will move a light tractor quite a bit. Your H is a an older, all metal tractor so will be ok with this. If you get into a more modern compact type of tractor of the same hp, the tractor would be even lighter and it can feel like the tail wagging the dog.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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