Still bale with H or Ms every year. Your 273 does not take much power so you are fine there. If you are able start out with smaller wind rows until you get a feel for it. Right after the plunger makes its stroke into the chamber it will release all pressure on the drivetrain of the tractor and the baler. Once you get a feel for that you can quickly clutch and shift the transmission to neutral during that slack time and then let the clutch back out quickly putting minimal stress on drivetrain. You can also time the shifting of the gears such to change speed on the go this way. Remember to let the baler run to get the chamber cleaned out on your corners or ends as that will make starting the baler much easier on the tractor and you will eat fewer shear bolts. Pto will disengage easy if there is no load on the baler and I find it easier to re-engage once the tractor is in gear, while moving line up on your windrow, clutch and as soon as the tractor stops pull up to engage pto and away you go, similar to the post about using belly pump below, that will be a time when all gears have stopped moving. You will get a feel for it quickly and then it will be easy.
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Today's Featured Article - Using Your Tractor: Creating a Seed Bed - by Chris Pratt. When I bought my first old tractor, I had only one idea in mind. It wasn't the preservation of old iron since at that time, I was unaware that people even did this. It wasn't to show off my restoration skills (though I had tried my hand at a couple of old motorcycles in my teens and if I recall correctly, those old motorcycles were sold in boxes about one quarter finished). It wasn't to relive memories of Grampa, Dad or myself out on the back 40 nursing the Farmall pulling too many b
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