John T is correct. One way to get the effect you need is to use two of them, one facing the way you plan to do it, and the other facing from the opposite side. Thinking out loud here, it is likely that letting out cable takes little power, a window lift/lower motor would have plenty of power to turn the winch backward, or reel in line as needed until the actual pull load is needed. At that point the starter motor could be engaged. The window motor reversing switch would work well. A double pole double throw momentary contact switch could also be used for the window motor switch. A conventional starter relay (solenoid) used for the starter motor. Starter motors are near a dead short in resistance, and don't like to operate for more than 30 seconds. Their on/off ratio is 30 seconds on and 2 minutes off. (duty cycle). my dad built a wagon lifting system with cables and a winch that used empty wagon weight to lower, and a starter motor from a Ford to lift. It worked for 5 seasons before gravity boxes and shelled corn made it obsolete. But it lifted for 10 seconds in pulses of lift till at max. Also it had a mechanical stop that prevented lowering when stopped on the unload part of its use. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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