I slightly modified mine by putting an adjustable draft port in the ash door (that brass knob below the window) so I could get regulated airflow through the grating to the coals. The original design routed air through a pair of registers into the stove and then over the inside of the glass window to keep smoke off the glass and keep it from getting all sooted up, THEN to the fire. It works fine for that primary purpose, but it really needed some extra air at the base of the fire to help keep the fire hot and the catalyst in the reburn range.
Once the firebox gases get into its operating range (according to a magnetic temp gauge stuck on the side door) I shut down that bottom air, flip the lever to route the smoke and gases through the combustor and it quickly heats the entire house to the point where on a mild day when it is only around freezing, we gotta crack open a window or two! Also, when it is burning/reburning, the exhaust plume is crystal clear- all you can see is the ripples of heated air coming out of the chimney, and the exhaust also gives off a slightly tangy smell, somewhat like smelling a hard coal fire from a distance.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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