I doubt the Loctite or added set screw will be very effective for this repair. Is the key way in the shaft full length or is it a woodruff/half moon key. If full length you could just get a piece of key stock and cut a full length key. Then the unworn section of the key way would carry the load. The weld and broach approach suggested would probably be cost prohibitive but I may be wrong. There may be a possibility that the hub could be re-broached at 180 degree from the original key way. If the new sprocket is crazy expensive from the manufacturer there are universal sprockets that may be less expensive but they require a welder. A hub is chosen to fit the shaft and then a proper tooth number and chain size is selected. Then the two are welded together. However, factory centering and hub side spacing has to be considered to utilize these, see link for an example I have not personally used this company. Many implement and farm stores carry these. Hope the price you paid for you baler online sight unseen reflected the fact that the machine required some repairs. This is a factor that should always be considered on these types of bids.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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