I am going to say your meter is probably not giving you an accurate reading in that range, what kind of meter is it? Two others as well as myself have suggested to test the power on the wire coming out of the distributor for power when points are open and no power ..grounded.. when points close. In this case if you have a 6 volt system and you show no power at the coil from the switch with the switch on I would suggest a hot wire from the ..non-grounded.. battery post to the coil. I state it this way because I am not sure if your tractor is negative or positive ground. Now do the power test on the distributor wire, If that is good then check for spark out of the coil wire then the spark at at least one of the plug wire if good then try to start it. If no start fix your fuel system which may have been the problem all along. Not sure at what point the switch was replaced and why. Also you say ..What are the wires coming off the distributor that goes to the coil I had to put another washer in between because the other one was dry rotted. Does anybody follow what I'm trying to do. LOL??.. not really sure what that means. The wire is a 14 or 16ga nothing special. I am guessing the eyelet came of the end and the washer you are adding is just to clamp down the braided wire. That is fine if it is a solid connection, but should be fixed in the future for reliability.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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