Posted by Tim PloughNman Daley on January 28, 2023 at 04:51:11 from (24.236.161.49):
In Reply to: Ford 8N mystery posted by Jonesy54 on January 27, 2023 at 13:31:16:
When your tractor sets idle for a long time, best to get it started first and running B4 you start yanking things off and replacing them. Until you perform true root cause problem solving methods, you are just guessing and parts probably don't need replacing anyway. Yeah, many 'fuel issues' turn out to be electrical issues and vice versa. And just because your battery is 6V do not assume you are wired correctly for the 6V/POS GRN setup. Wiring PICTOGRAM by JMOR is below. Note that lights are often incorrectly wired, on both 6V and 12V setups, and are a major reason for shorts and non-starting issues. Lights were never a factory feature; always a dealer optional accessory. When troubleshooting electrical, always first disconnect the lights and the battery. Next, you say NEW M-S CARB... is it a cheap Chi-Comm made clone or a real Marvel-Schebler TSX 241-B Carb? Rebuilding the OEM components is always the best method for these vintage machines, as they were engineered to be. New stuff is mostly junk. If you installed one of the clones, did you just put it on out of the box? You do know that there is no QC in Cheena, they do not preset to specs or even test anything built in Cheena, right? Setting the float to 9/32 (1/4 will suffice) is important. The newer style Needle & Float Valve has an extra clip and must be set correctly. The Main, Air Idle, and Throttle/Speed Mix adjustments should be to initial specs per manual. First order is to perform the Fuel Flow Test with a cold engine. Fail? Go thru usual possible causes and then R&R'g the carb correctly if needed. If carb passes fuel flow test, leave it alone and move on to electrical. Next, When your tractor sets for a week or longer idle, the 2nd best investment you can make, having the ESSENTIAL MANUALS is 1st, is to get a good float charger, DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR is very good, and keep battery at optimum charge so it is ready to go when you are. A basic garage/shop trickle charger won't do the same thing. Get battery tested for specific gravity with a hydrometer or better yet, at a local shop, under load on their special test machine. Next, replacing all the distributor parts, otherwise known as a tuneup, requires it is done correctly setting points to .025, setting the timing first static per manual then with a timing light at 4 degrees BTDC on flywheel via the inspection cover; and firing order is 1,2,4,3 CCW. Going thru the entire wiring system first is required B4 turning that ignition key. A visual at first will tell you condition: Starter Motor is a 3-Wire unit with a RELAY(Solenoid); Generator is a 3-Wire/2=Brush 20 AMP, A Circuit Unit amd must have the belt tensioning device on it; and the correct Voltage Regulator. If you want, I rebuild OEM M/S Carbs and have TSX-241 on my shelf now. Your ESSENTIAL MANUALS are required but if you don't have, here some pages to help you get started. Start with these suggestions.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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