A 55 gallon steel barrel converted to a 3 point counterweight works great. When fabricating prior to filling with concrete, run the 'drawbar' for the lower links through the front third of the barrel, not the center. This allows for the tractor's drawbar to remain in the correct fore and aft position for proper PTO work. A modest additional benefit is that your weight is slightly farther away from the tractor for more effective counterweight. Measure the distance from the lower link to the ground when in the lowest position and cut the holes in the steel barrel accordingly. Mine was used on two different tractors with different lower link pins to ground measurements. I ended up modifying my barrels' lower links as well as constructing a wooden platform for the counterweight barrel storage.In the fabrication I added some arms to allow for mounting of more suitcase weights, if and when needed. Also add a hitch out the back of the barrel for pulling wagons, etc. without removing the barrel from the 3 point hitch. Leave the concrete in the barrel down several inches from the top so that chains, hitch pins, etc. have a place to ride.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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