Listen to Wore Out. Most likely a fuel issue. First, assuming you have opened the SEDIMENT BULB Valve 2 Turns? A Fuel Flow Test is in order first but wait til engine cools down for safety reasons, burns and fires mainly. If fuel blockage is not found, then you can move on to electrical but I'd bet too you'll find the problem is in the fuel system. When engine quits do the spark test right then. I'd say it ain't your coil or condenser as others said. These are common guesses, not based on any logical problem solving methods. How do you test a condenser? Got a special test device? Coil can be bad, yes, so ask yourself if you've ever left the key ON with engine off. Yes? Could have done internal damage if points were closed and only displays when it gets hot. All signs point to a fuel issue so until these possible root cause issues are resolved, leave electrical alone. As mentioned too, an added external in-line fuel filter often is trouble and in my opinion is not needed.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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