Hopefully you have or can access a 4 inch angle grinder. There is a lip on the front of the ear where the machined area on the front surface is. When I say ear I mean the part of the casting that sticks up that the bolt is stuck in. I would suggest you grind that square. This is for the purpose of pounding on the cast ear and the grinding will help avoid the cast edge from chipping away. The purpose of the pounding or maybe a better term for it is ..wrap.. to loosen the bond between the bolt and the cast. In a very minute way it will expand the hole the bolt is in. To explain more you are going to pound at it pretending the cast part around the bolt is a rubber hose. The blows are going to repeatedly, microscopically for just a microsecond egg shape the bolt hole around the bolt. Use a hammer about the size of a carpenters finish hammer which I believe is 16oz. Tap on it with a swing equal to that required to drive a dry wall nail in a 2x4 or a 4 penny box nail. Which has a shank a bit bigger than a pencil lead. This type of technique and practices are all based on blacksmithing. After the pounding you need to try the washer and nut again. Right after the welding tap on the casting again using a stubby punch with a least a 5/16 diameter contact surface with the cast. I do agree with wore out, before spending a lot of time on it I would blow it out with a cutting torch. It is funny how different folks use different terms to describe something. The word ..wrung.. does mean ..to twist.. His subject line would have been easier to understand if it would have said ..IH 1086 bolt wrung in two..
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