I agree with not running the tractor anymore until you address the knock.
The easy way may work. Drop the pan and see if you can figure out which rod is knocking. Pull the cap, polish the journal a bit and install a new bearing. If the journal isn't jacked you can get away with it being that simple on a lightly used low RMP engine. If you have to polish it a lot to smooth it out mic it after polishing and see if its still standard, .010, ,020, or .030 under. Cheap rod bearings (no point in going expensive if you've gone this route) can be had for as little as $19 on Ebay.
WE did exactly that on an IH 1600 with a 345 engine - replaced the bearing with a standard and torqued it to spec and drove it for a summer then sold it that fall. Held up and never started knocking again and maintained good oil pressure. I was sure it would send a rod through the bottom of the oilpan the first time it was revved up to shift under a load.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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