A operator who can feel how the machine is running is the key. Its a learned skill that comes with practice and guidance. Dont be afraid to try different settings as youll figure out which one is the most efficient
My suggestions:
1. Move the tires to the narrowest setting (52 inch) which should allow the mower to cut the outside to outside rear tire width. With some additional spacers you might be able to push in the rear tires so the outsides line up with the fronts. fender dependent
2. A bad factory weld that took xxx years to completely brake through. Heat the yoke a little and weld it up. Quick job
3. Your correct. You want the float. just tight enough to get the wheel off the ground for transport and to lift over obstacles
4. Even to slightly down in front. - at the side skid bar. I like to use the rear wheel to set the cut height . Not an exact science on a bush hog.
5. I run the throttle wide open almost all of the time. Lower throttle and gear if I dont want to through stuff out from the bottom of the mower deck
6-7. Its all about the feel of the tractor and mower
I shift up and down depending on how the mower is cutting and bogging down. Going up hill I might do half a cut with the other half on previously cut grass
For really high stuff might do 2 cuts. One at a foot or higher and a second lower. Depends what you are cutting for
Oh the support from the top of the 3 point hitch to tail wheel frame looks bent up. Some bush hogs use a again instead of the flat iron or a big oval slip connection. BUT. The top link chain does the same thing
Hope this helps. And good luck. 3000 is a real nice tractor. Dad had a ford 801 power master that had a gear driven pto with out overrun clutch. Had to anticipate when to stop as their was a delay from the mower spinning down. Think the 3000 had a dual clutch or independent pto
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